Early Settlers, Mythology and Merle:
The U.S. Civil War had been over for a decade when the first Caucasian
settler arrived in the area known today as Leucadia. While early accounts
of the North Highway 101 Corridor are sketchy, Nathan Eaton is thought
to be the first settler. Arriving in 1875, he set up a homestead just
south of Batiquitos Lagoon where he grew crops and kept bees.
In the 1880's the Leucadia Land and Town Company was established.
One story holds that a band of English Spiritualists settled in the
area. Another version maintains that a promoter of questionable reputation,
Tom Fitch, came from Nevada to sell land through the Leucadia Land
and Town Company. Regardless of the origin, the name Leucadia, meaning
"a sheltered place", remained.
In 1881, the California Southern along with the Atchison, Topeka,
and Santa Fe Railroad built a rail yard in National City and began
to lay a rail bed along the coast through Encinitas and Leucadia to
Oceanside, and ultimately to San Bernardino. Construction of the railroad
brought James Benjamin Elliott to Leucadia. Several accounts credit
Elliott with planting the cypress and eucalyptus trees that define
the 101 Corridor of Leucadia. It is thought that Elliott's motivation
to plant the trees was to enhance the real estate value of the area
and that he used railroad crews to plant the trees. Upon his termination
from the railroad, Elliott purchased a farm in Leucadia and joined
with Fitch in promoting the Leucadia Land and Town Company.
Proponents of Leucadia commissioned a plan in 1888 by the surveyor,
O. N. Sanford, who platted Encinitas. The "Map of North Leucadia"
featured a grid with 80 foot streets and avenues and 20 foot alleys.
Regular lots in the area west of the railroad and adjacent to the
railroad on the east were 50 feet by 120 feet while lots farther east
were 146 feet by 300 feet and known as "villa lots." The street names
include one for Nathan Eaton (Nathan Street) and several from Greek
mythology (Hygeia, Marathon, Neptune).
By 1898, the use of street names derived from mythology had
taken hold. A survey map of the "Fifth Road District" shows additional
streets south of Marathon, all with names from mythology. The southernmost
street started with an "A" (Athena) and the streets progressed in
alphabetical order (excluding "K") through Lycurgus Street, which
was just south of Marathon.
Another early resident was rancher E. B. Scott who supposedly
planted the first Eucalyptus trees in the area overlooking the lagoon.
Scott named the area "Merle" after one of his sons. The name Merle
persisted for years. In the San Diego City and County Directory of 1899-1900 and 1901, Merle was listed with N. A. Eaton as postmaster.
There was no listing for "Leucadia" in either directory. Even a much
later State Highway Survey Map (1926) shows the area between Nathan
and Sanford Streets as Merle: so the name persisted well into the
twentieth century.
Water, Roads and Subdivisions: The growth
and development of Merle and Leucadia, as with most of the West, is
directly linked to the availability of water. In spite of the grandiose
dreams of the purveyors of nineteenth century Leucadia, the limited
water supply kept a ceiling on development. With the construction
of the dam at Lake Hodges and the establishment of the San Dieguito
Irrigation District, a reliable source of water became available.
In 1925, the South Coast Land Company advertised that their
"policy has always been never to market land until water is actually
on the land, ready for use, roads built, maps completed, and all problems
connected with marketing such lands thoroughly worked out." The widening
of Highway 101 in 1913 and the establishment of the water district
in 1924, those elements deemed necessary for subdivision were in place
and the South Coast Land Company, with others, went to work.
The South Coast Land Company, the biggest land promoter in the
area, subdivided a large area east of Highway 101 between Fulvia (now
Leucadia Blvd.) and Sanford in early 1924. The company heralded South
Coast Park as "the principal subdivision in point of both area and
population containing 1050 acres under irrigation.." Starting in 1925
through the end of the decade almost every issue of the Encinitas Coast Dispatch contained a large display ad
for South Coast Park as well as a column entitled "South Coast Park".
The column loosely tracked the development of the area offering news
of individuals who were building there.
The South Coast Park area had moved west of Highway 101 with
the subdivision of Unit 2 in 1925, and Units 4 and 5 in 1927. This
area stretched from Athena on the south to Grandview on the north.
It was during the 1927 subdivision that the streets of Nathan, Pacific,
Pine, Monterey, and Myrtle were vacated and replatted.
The popularity of South Coast Park is reflected in a 1929 Encinitas Coast Dispatch article which said that "R.
R. Zachary of the South Coast Land Company states that building restrictions
are to be more rigidly enforced in the future. He advises all who
contemplate building in South Coast Park soon to get in touch...to
talk over building restrictions."
Improvements to the general area and service businesses were
needed to further promote urbanization. In 1925, the development of
a Civic Center (the area surrounding what is now known as Leucadia
Roadside Park) for South Coast Park was promoted to attract businesses.
In order to achieve the dream of "building a city", it was necessary
to provide business services, according to an advertisement in the Encinitas Coast Dispatch in 1925. This ad tells of immediately
needing "a first class general store, a good garage and several smaller
shops." Plans for the Civic Center included improvements such as light
standards. Another ad boasted that "on Wednesday, August 19, our street
lights in South Coast Park Civic Center were turned on for the first
time to the great delight of the entire community. This makes South
Coast Park Civic Center the best lighted district between Santa Ana
and La Jolla."
Another major subdivision was Seaside Gardens and Seaside Gardens Annex established in 1924 by Esther
Cullen, Cora A. Taylor, and Amelia C. Briggs. Seaside Gardens was located to the west of Highway 101 and the
Annex to the east. Promotions for Seaside Gardens promised that they
would bring in "real people, not joy-riders, any one of whom you would
like to have as a neighbor. Some will buy in Seaside Gardens, some
will want acreage, we have both" boasted an ad in the Encinitas
Coast Dispatch.
In 1928, the entire Seaside Gardens tract was purchased by John
P. Mills. The Encinitas Coast Dispatch described
the area as "an attractive residential district with sidewalks, curbs,
gutters, ornamental light standards and trees already planted."
Avocado Acres No. 2 was subdivided by the Southern Title Guaranty
Company in 1924, creating Eucalyptus and Wilstone Streets. Avocado
Acres was promoted by the Ed Fletcher Company of San Diego. Fletcher
was an influential figure in the history of San Diego county and was
involved in developing land, roads and dams. In the teens Fletcher
worked for the South Coast Land Company and purchased almost all of
the coastal land from Oceanside to Del Mar. He helped to build the
dam at Lake Hodges that spurred the formation of water companies and
districts.
Agriculture, Avocados, and Flowers: The
development of a reliable and ready source of water, combined with
the mild coastal climate and entrepreneurial growers resulted in the
blossoming of Leucadia. A description from the 1929 Encinitas
Coast Dispatch tells that "the Briggs Floral Gardens in
the northern part of South Coast Park are now a riot of color - the
acres of brilliant flowers are visible for many miles North on the
Coastal Highway."
The growth of the floral industry is credited to Thomas McLoughlin
who moved from Seattle to Leucadia in 1924. McLoughlin, president
of the South Coast Horticultural Association, was instrumental in
creating the Encinitas Mid-Winter Flower Shows, an annual event that
ran from 1925 through 1935. The exhibition attracted growers from
all over the state and featured fruits and vegetables as well as flowers.
Dignitaries such as the mayor of San Diego and "numbers of celebrities
of the movie industry in Hollywood" attended the events.
A green gold coast of avocado trees was envisioned for the Leucadia
area in the middle 1920's. The industry was touted as having "phenomenal
growth...having been told of its possibilities as a 'green gold' crop."
Only a few years earlier they were called "alligator pear trees" and
regarded as a mere novelty.
The growing popularity of the fruit was capitalized upon with
the subdivision named Avocado Acres. Advertisements for the subdivision
offered to plant "your land with the best varieties of avocados from
our own nurseries and care for them for a time at reasonable cost."
One could also write away for their "new book, 'The Avocado.'"
Avocado groves were also planted in the South Coast Park area
along Vulcan Avenue and spreading out to residential streets such
as Encinitas (now Sunset) and Hermes. By 1928, avocado groves were
considered "one of the high points of interest for those who came
to look over this section of South Coast Park." In the early "pre-water"
1920's, plantings were made by seed. With further experimentation
and readily available water, avocado plantings and trees became part
of the Leucadia landscape.
From Tents to Cabins to Motor Courts to Motels: The
Growth of the Tourist Industry: As the transportation
improvement of the railroad in the 1880's brought growth to the North
Highway 101 Corridor area, the widespread use of the automobile brought
growth in the late 1920's. By the late teens American automobile manufacturers
had developed assembly line production methods and were able to sell
greater numbers of sturdy, inexpensive cars. These private passenger
cars offered a freedom from railroads. Railroad lines were defined
by the rails and stations. With an automobile a tourist could travel
a variety of routes (initially roads used by horses and wagons) and
the driver of the automobile could choose where and when to stop and
what to see, limited only by the location and condition of the roads.
This freedom "to start, stop, or change direction at will made
the automobile more than a means of moving from one place to another.
It offered not only an alternative to railroads but also...the magic
of the silver screen. The windshield of any car could be transformed
into a proscenium arch framing one of the most fascinating movies
of all - the landscape played at high speed." (Liebs). No previous
mode of transportation provided such an experience.
The combination of the availability of the private automobile
and California's climate opened the doors to the development of a
tourism industry in the Encinitas-Leucadia area. Highway 101, the
state highway connecting Los Angeles and San Diego was the main approach
to the area from the North. The eucalyptus and cypress trees that
had been planted a few decades earlier provided a shaded roadside
strip for travelers who had just traversed the wide open coastal plains.
Services for travelers such as gas stations, produce booths, tourist
camps, and restaurants began to sprout up along the roadside. From
the mid 1920's through the 1930's, the North Highway 101 corridor
spawned a myriad of roadside businesses as the popularity of the automobile
endured the depression.
One of the primary services required by travelers were overnight
accommodations. One early form of accommodation was the auto camp.
Sunset magazine extolled the virtues of "Tenting on the New Camp Ground"
(July 1925) describing it as a "pleasure that is being enjoyed by
annually increasing thousands in the auto" with new camps being developed
"every year for the growing army of motorists who have caught the
fever of outdoor life."
In 1925, the South Coast Land Company opened "a modern free
camping ground on the Highway" (Encinitas Coast Dispatch,
1925) to accommodate the visitors who were interested
in purchasing property. In 1928, the Encinitas Coast Dispatch noted that "although this part of San Diego county is essentially
an agricultural unit, the 'vacation industry' and home-making business
play an important role in the growth recorded here during the past
year. Along the coast highway, hotels, restaurants and other establishments
catering to vacation tourists have shown marked expansion."
Some other highway services noted in the Encinitas
Coast Dispatch included: a campground and store (Glaucus
and Highway 101) managed by Evelyn Hilton and George Calvert; the
Journey's End Auto Camp; the Leucadia Service Garage adjoining the
Post Office; the Evans Steak and Chop House; the Williams Grocery
Store; and the Cypress Grove Auto Camp and Filling Station. During
this period another building type critical to the success of automobile
touring - the gas station - came into prominence. The one stop service
station became a roadside fixture housing a gas distribution system
and auto maintenance services under one roof.
By the 1920's tourism had become an integral part of the economy
of the North Highway 101 corridor, and the auto campgrounds provided
refuge for hardy auto travelers. Traditional hotels in the business
districts near rail stations had long offered accommodations. However,
after a long day's drive and adventure many motorists preferred the
informality of the auto camp to the more formal hotel with its central
lobby area. Many communities and businesses such as the South Coast
Land Company built tourist camps in city parks or vacant lands. These
campgrounds were popular with tourists since they provided reassurance
of a comfortable and secure destination where they could gas up the
car and browse in local stores. Local businesses also hoped the tourists
would stay for a period of time and eat and shop at the local establishments.
However, as auto touring became more popular the camps began
to decline. With the influx of tourists it became more difficult to
maintain the campgrounds; they became more crowded and occasional
unsavory characters camped at these free grounds. Campgrounds began
to charge a fee and to provide services and incentives for travelers
to stay at their facility. As travelers became conditioned to expect
to pay a fee for a place to camp, competition - and the development
of amenities - grew. Business owners discovered that travelers were
willing to pay additional money for more permanent, private accommodations,
and the concept of tent cabins and cabin camps emerged. These, too,
were short-lived since the term cabin camps became associated with
run down lots full of auto gypsies.
Physical changes from that of haphazard assemblages of tents
and cabins to more organized plans of "courts" of cabins resulted
in accommodations that were private yet visible and accessible from
the highway. The Encinitas Coast Dispatch reported
on the early motor courts constructed along Highway 101 in the 1920's.
In 1928 it reported that "South Coast Park" is looking forward to
the beginning of work on the new McClung auto court which is to be
started on the highway near the Civic Center soon. The court is to
be of stucco, adding to the plans drawn up by H. P. McClung of Alhambra...there
will be 10 units with garage as well as McClung's own 6-room home."
Located north of the Civic Center, "It is one of the most attractive
in this section of the community." A year later the Blue Goose Auto
Court, "modern in every way", was under construction.
The first motor hotel, called a "motel", is generally attributed
to the Milestone Motel built in San Luis Obispo in 1925 by Pasadena
architect Arthus S. Heineman. The motel building type consisted of
a building (or buildings) each containing a string of rooms rather
than the individual cabin concept of motor courts. Motels were more
economical to build than motor courts since they maximized available
space and cut down on construction requirements. Motels became the
primary form of roadside accommodations starting in the 1930's.
Wood Frames and Plastic: The Development of Plant
Nurseries: For the first half of the 20th century floriculture
in the North Highway 101 Corridor area consisted of growers producing
flowers (mainly gladioli) in open fields. The flowers were mostly
sold at local markets. There were very few green-houses in the area.
The era of dramatic growth for the floral industry took place after
World War II as a result of new technologies. The development of polyethylene
plastic film made it possible to construct simple wood frame structures
that were enclosed with the plastic film. These wood frame structures
were more economical to build than the traditional steel and glass
greenhouses. Air freight became a viable option as the cost for the
service decreased. This opened up national markets to growers. Growers
from the Los Angeles area, squeezed out by urbanization, migrated
to San Diego County after World War II.
Conclusion: The early growth and development
of the North Highway 101 Corridor is linked to water, transportation,
and tourism. After the first footholds of a few early settlers, the
coming of the railroad in the 1880's brought transportation links
to the rest of California and the United States. Early subdivisions
and land development was begun, but was limited by a scarce water
supply. The establishment of Lake Hodges and the San Dieguito Irrigation
District resulted in a reliable water source. By the mid-1920's several
land companies and developers were subdividing the land along the
North Highway 101 Corridor. New residents further developed the area
by establishing businesses such as agriculture, avocado and flower
growing, and developing tourist services such as motor courts, motels
and other roadside services.
The cultural landscape of the North Highway 101 Corridor today
features surviving examples of these land uses, such as motels and
nurseries still featuring their original function in their original
form, and structures in which the use has changed but the form remains
relatively intact.